Destination: Kitsap Peninsula

Did you know Puget Sound is full of peninsulas  – bits of land surrounded by water on three sides? Seen from the air or on a map, they look like handshakes, raised fists or thumbs-ups between water and land.

Most Washingtonians, or people who’ve planned a big trip to Washington, have heard of our famous Olympic Peninsula, the northwestern tip of the Lower 48.

But have you heard of the Kitsap Peninsula?

Kitsap Peninsula has personal significance for me, so please forgive my bias in saying it’s wonderful. My partner used to live on Bainbridge Island, and nearby Kitsap Memorial State Park was our frequent picnic spot. In fact, we’d gone there on March 23, 2020, the day the park shut down for the pandemic. As the gates closed behind us, we fell silent, unsure when/if we’d be venturing past our back yard again.

Fortunately, state parks reopened in May. Like many folks that summer, we found solace in local parks we could get to without stopping en route.

Better days

Nowadays, people can once again choose trips with urban amenities as well as scenery and awesome camping. That makes the Kitsap Peninsula state parks pretty attractive. While they all have forested campgrounds and beachfront recreation, none are too far from cute little towns (and a couple of cities) with restaurants, shops, coffee houses and more.

Connected to the mainland by two bridges (Hood Canal and Tacoma Narrows) and by land between Shelton and Bremerton, the area offers the perfect road trip from most parts of Washington.

A year after we left Bainbridge I returned to Kitsap as a visitor, vs. a local.

My trip itinerary (that I encourage you to use!)

First stop: Manchester State Park. The park sits on a finger of land pointing toward Bainbridge and Seattle beyond. Before it became a state park, “Middle Point” had a brief stint as a military fort. Its signature feature, a giant brick building with high arches, once served as a torpedo storage house. It’s now a picnic shelter and wedding venue. Whether you’re buying groceries to grill in camp or planning dinner out, you’ll find options in sweet Port Orchard 15 minutes away.

A lovely drive around an inlet, through a neighborhood got me to Illahee State Park. Illahee features Civilian Conservation Corps-era picnic shelters and forest. The park has a boating culture with a dock, pier and mooring buoys. You can fish from the pier, go crabbing, camp in the shade and find the ballfield where the whole family can play! Two large Naval guns were donated from the U.S.S. Virginia, and the park is a stone’s throw from the Naval city of Bremerton.

From Illahee, I caught a boat ride with Ranger Kinnan Murray to Blake Island Marine State Park. It was a hop, skip and a literal jump (from the boat) onto the island. The north side is a kayaker’s paradise, with Cascadia Marine Trail campsites under trees. Motorized boaters can sail to the east side, where grassy campsites have breathtaking views of Seattle. I took an hour to cross the island on the forested trails and met Ranger Kinnan at the dock near the old Tillicum Village. Before we pushed off, we saw a baby Canada goose waddling by with its parents.  

My partner’s kids once kayaked to Blake Island as Scouts. You can kayak from Manchester or Bainbridge Island, but you’ll want to have paddling experience – or a friend with experience – to be safe.

Otherwise, you’ll need a boat to get there. Or a friend with a boat.

I’d been to Scenic Beach State Park near tiny Seabeck (but only 20 minutes from Silverdale) a long time ago, but I wanted a fresher take, so I asked my colleague Lindy, who’d visited in May. She said:

If you're looking to get off the beaten path, Scenic Beach is for you. The campsites are well spaced out with trees surrounding them, so they feel private. There are no hook-ups though, so be warned!

It's a brief walk from the campground to the beach (and a good uphill climb on your way back). You can't beat the sunsets over the water, or the Olympics towering across the Hood Canal.

Enjoy the playground and picnic area or walk near the 1911 Emel House and marvel at the park’s historic buildings. 

And of course, Kitsap Memorial, perched on a bluff overlooking Hood Canal and the Olympics, is a popular date, sunset viewing and wedding spot. In addition to tent and RV campsites, the park has adorable west-facing cabins. A few miles south, you’ll find the charming Norwegian town of Poulsbo.

Whether you’re a lifelong Seattleite looking for a close-in getaway, an east-sider trying to escape the heat, or an out-of-stater hoping to beat the crowds, this gorgeous and underrated destination really does have something for everyone. Plan your trip today!